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I have this lens and have been using it in the S5. I like the fall-off.

Does the resolution keep pace with the S1R's sensor in comparison to your other lenses?
Hand-held and focused on the license plate. Distance between camera and car about 200 meters. 1st photo full frame, 2nd photo cropped. I can say that I was pleasantly surprised when I saw these photos. Comment on this lens is that it would be weak at infinity. My opinion is that the Irix 150mm macro can also be used as a "normal" telephoto lens on a Lumix S1r.
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The last image, not quite macro, but close, my cat in the autumn sun.
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Unfortunately I haven't had time to photograph lately, but apparently the lens can keep up with the Lumix Pro lenses; but I need to test that further.
First purchase an adapter with aperture control, to know which aperture I am using. My current adapter is for lenses with aperture ring.
 
Hand-held and focused on the license plate. Distance between camera and car about 200 meters. 1st photo full frame, 2nd photo cropped. I can say that I was pleasantly surprised when I saw these photos. Comment on this lens is that it would be weak at infinity. My opinion is that the Irix 150mm macro can also be used as a "normal" telephoto lens on a Lumix S1r.
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The last image, not quite macro, but close, my cat in the autumn sun.
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Unfortunately I haven't had time to photograph lately, but apparently the lens can keep up with the Lumix Pro lenses; but I need to test that further.
First purchase an adapter with aperture control, to know which aperture I am using. My current adapter is for lenses with aperture ring.

Thank you. I'm thinking ahead and may pick up an S1R in the future when Lumix announce a replacement.

Whilst the S5 has a really nice sensor, I was disappointed to discover that it doesn't work with flash in hi-res mode - I do a little product photography. I was recently asked for some large files but was able to use my EM1 Mk2 on hi-res mode. To be honest, for what they wanted, 6000x4000 was more than enough, but their last guy was using a Sony A7R and they had convinced themselves they needed something as big.

I have the Canon fit Irix lens. It works fine with the Sigma MC21.
 
I just got my first 2:1 macro lens. the Laowa 60mm f 2.8 Macro 2:1 in Sony FE mount. The reason I got the lens is that it's the cheapest I could find used at 250 £ with the added bonus of doing 2:1 (I had a look at adapting vintage and DSLR options BUT most of them would cost close to as much if I include the adapter or they wouldn't do 1:1 natively, especially for legacy mounts like Pentax K, Olympus OM, Nikon F or Minolta MD/MC). Though I would have liked to get the APO version because I really really REALLY hate LoCA and how much work it is to remove it in post.

This is a very quick test with little time and care put into it just to see the 2:1 effect:
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The shot at f 22 loses a huge amount of sharpness but it gives me an idea of DoF, which is less the 5mm deep, where it doesn't cover the top of the blue sapphire to the end of the silver frame (top of the image).

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At f 16 it is sharper but the DoF now is more obvious that it doesn't cover the sapphire rock, though I love the cool effect of the inside of the gem as the focus plane is more inside the gem and closer to the silver frame. The ring belonged to my late girlfriend, made of silver with white and blue sapphires from India made by UNICEF. It was her birthday gift (with a pair of earrings and a neckless of a similar design bought from UNICEF) but I stopped wearing her ring this summer because I lost 2 of the white gems on the ring's circumference and I don't want to damage it too much. Now it sits on her neckless around the Aching Arms teddy bear we received from the hospital after losing our daughter. (Coincidentally, yesterday was 1 year since Kim passed away.)
 
I just got my first 2:1 macro lens. the Laowa 60mm f 2.8 Macro 2:1 in Sony FE mount. The reason I got the lens is that it's the cheapest I could find used at 250 £ with the added bonus of doing 2:1 (I had a look at adapting vintage and DSLR options BUT most of them would cost close to as much if I include the adapter or they wouldn't do 1:1 natively, especially for legacy mounts like Pentax K, Olympus OM, Nikon F or Minolta MD/MC). Though I would have liked to get the APO version because I really really REALLY hate LoCA and how much work it is to remove it in post.

This is a very quick test with little time and care put into it just to see the 2:1 effect:
View attachment 348021
The shot at f 22 loses a huge amount of sharpness but it gives me an idea of DoF, which is less the 5mm deep, where it doesn't cover the top of the blue sapphire to the end of the silver frame (top of the image).

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At f 16 it is sharper but the DoF now is more obvious that it doesn't cover the sapphire rock, though I love the cool effect of the inside of the gem as the focus plane is more inside the gem and closer to the silver frame. The ring belonged to my late girlfriend, made of silver with white and blue sapphires from India made by UNICEF. It was her birthday gift (with a pair of earrings and a neckless of a similar design bought from UNICEF) but I stopped wearing her ring this summer because I lost 2 of the white gems on the ring's circumference and I don't want to damage it too much. Now it sits on her neckless around the Aching Arms teddy bear we received from the hospital after losing our daughter. (Coincidentally, yesterday was 1 year since Kim passed away.)
Look forward to seeing how you strategise using that lens re focusing, aperture, lighting etc. I'm quite lazy in that regard (but don't use AF at least).
 
Look forward to seeing how you strategise using that lens re focusing, aperture, lighting etc. I'm quite lazy in that regard (but don't use AF at least).
My plan is to build a mini studio on my desk, using Gorillapod mini tripods to manoeuvre LED continuous lights (Ulanzi VL49 and 96) and support the camera using the Gorillapod SLR Zoom or my travel carbon tripod (can't remember the model). I also intend to add the NiSi NM-180 macro rail focusing system to circumvent the lack of DoF and the lack of Sony's implementation for Focus Bracketing in the camera (except for the Sony a7R V) ... I would need an AF-capable macro lens for that feature anyways and there is non that can do greater than 1:1 unassisted.
If needed (and I have a feeling it might be the more I get into it) I could also add a cheap ring flash/LED setup on the lens for more light.

The lens is meant, mostly, for the indoor mini studio because of the magnification and lack of AF for me, though I will consider an AF-capable (possibly but not absolutely necessary) macro lens with a longer working distance for outdoor work. Though what I would be most interested in trying is the Tamron 24mm f 2.8 Di III OSD 1:2 Macro for wide-angle macro shots, especially for mushrooms and small flowers.
 
My plan is to build a mini studio on my desk, using Gorillapod mini tripods to manoeuvre LED continuous lights (Ulanzi VL49 and 96) (snip).
No LED light is continuous. Some will use LEDs to excite phosphors to get get a reasonable approximation (but still not true continuous), many more white LEDs just use a mix of red/green/blue LEDs balanced to give an apparent white.

For proper continuous light you need an incandescent source. (such as tungsten lamps, halogen lamps or sunlight).

White LEDs may well be adequate for your purposes, but they can be unpredictable if true colour is needed.
 
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No LED light is continuous. Some will use LEDs to excite phosphors to get get a reasonable approximation (but still not true continuous), many more white LEDs just use a mix of red/green/blue LEDs balanced to give an apparent white.

For proper continuous light you need an incandescent source. (such as tungsten lamps, halogen lamps or sunlight).

White LEDs may well be adequate for your purposes, but they can be unpredictable if true colour is needed.
Thank you. I meant to say continuous type light source instead of strobing light source. It helps with understanding exposure a bit easier as I am not used to dedicated flashes.
I have a feeling that they might not be strong enough but I plan on using the under 10 cm from the subject in the mini studio as my intention is to use 1:1 and 2:1 magnification, the working distance from the edge of the lens wille be less then 5 cm. Side light and backlight is most that I can do for now, I will try to get either a pens mount ring flash or ring flash where you can stick your lens through.
I have tried to use the Ulanzi 96 LED on top of the camera but from 1:3 the lens casts a significant shadow and at 2:1 the shadow covers half the image.
Because of the 2:1 lens design as magnify there's a significant loss of light and extreme focua breathing. I will try to test and show it in practical sense how it works and looks when I have enough free time.

PS. All 3 lights have calibrated white levels for accuracy, I don't know if they are as good as first party and professional grade lights, it does have CRI 95 certification.
 
Had my external lights and mini tripods with me today but I didn't have time to do more then a handful of shots (I really need to be more organized with my time), luckily the shroomies are still there and looking "happy" even though it's freezing cold.

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First was a test to see how a light source (on the right side) would affect the look, so I left it at f 5.6 even though that's not enough DoF for all of the shroomies. The white highlights are from my Ulanzi 96 LED light unit (on a GorillaPod Joby 500) with maximum brightness and the transparent panel (wish I had tried the yellow panel).

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I stopped down the aperture for more DoF (yet still insufficient to get thr front most shroomies), I noticed the external light hasn't lost much of any brightness on the subject which is good for when I get to closer macro magnification to 1:1, probably becoming square inverse law of effectiveness.

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I would like to mention that all of the pictures here are SooC JPEGs, I won't be able to edit the RAWs until I get home from work tonight. I am pleasantly surprised how good they look compared to my last try to shoot JPEGs. I am quite happy with the colours, sharpness and noise level (but that's hardly a challenge for the sensor at base or close to base ISO).

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It was a challenge to get the composition, magnification, working distance and light position/reach to the subject but that's mostly (I think) to having only 15 minutes to get the shots and being inadvertently dressed for the cold and the wet grass.

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For homework I decided to shoot 4 images with the light from the front (first image), from the right and left side (next 2 images) and from the top (last one). I plan on blending them together to see if I can get a more uniform light on the mushroom, if not then maybe I can blend them to make the mushroom glow (which is that I had hoped to learn how to do for macro 🍄).

I need to try this more because it's quite exciting and fun, probably even more so with my Lowa 60mm f 2.8 Macro 2:1.
 
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My first successful stacked image with my "new" macro setup. Finished a couple of minutes ago but I am so excited to share it that I didn't want to wait to do the others. 7 images stacked at (very unscientific and not-accurately-measured-at-all) 1/4th of a turn on my macro slider. Want to guess what they are?
 
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The setup is as basic as it gets: 3 Gorrilapods to support the lights and the camera. Note to self: the camera setup is not stable enough, need to find a better/stable solution. I put the "subject" in a tea cup lid so I can freely spin it on the bottom of an up-side-down bowl on the table and a black piece of trousers on the old (and for sale) Sony a7R Mark II box (with the camera in it for extra insult :p ).
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The working distance is only a few cm/inches away. A lot less then I expected and a lot less then I hoped for a good solution, I am probably going to look for the Laowa 90mm or 100mm as an alternative to be able to work not just with sweet (hint hint) subjects but also alive.
 
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Just because I was cooking some, crab meat sticks (ready to eat). I cut one in half to see the layers. I didn't do enough images with a finer enough increments in focus bracketing to get the top half sharp (with some strange in focus areas in an ocean of out of focus :p )

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Instant coffee particles, again with quite a bit of out of focus areas from not having enough increments in focus bracketing (will take some time to get used to working at 2:1 macro).
 
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